Colour Isn't Everything

spaced warp scarf

The "little black dress" was once a staple in a modern woman's wardrobe.  Devoid of colour it was the cloth, the styling and tailoring that made it a stand out as a sophisticated classic.

So what happens when we reduce the role of colour in our weaving and instead concentrate on black, white and neutral shades of grey or beige. Without a riot of colours we have to work with structure, pattern and texture.

A combination of black and white can make for a dramatic piece.  The high contrast between black and white accentuates any pattern as shown in the following two pieces.

mat with asymmetric stripes

alternating twill stripes 

 Both weavers have put patterned bands against a black background which makes them stand out.  The one on the left is asymmetrical and the one on the right shows movement in the form of narrow stripes.  Twill lines have been carefully placed to show up on the light stripes.

Neutrals may not be dramatic but they can be quietly sophisticated. The two cowls shown below have textural interest due to combining yarns with different properties.  The yarns are very fine and loosely woven so the pieces are light and drape well.  The result are two very classy and versatile accessories.

   

distored cloth cowl

cowl in fine threads

pleated scarf in black and white

This piece has a surprise.  The twill pleats give a dark side and a light side.  But when the scarf is stretched both colours show up as alternating dark and light stripes.  The pleating is based on a carefully balanced 3/1 vs 1/3 twill.  Materials, sett  and beat plus the width of the stripes will determine how dramatic the pleating is.

wall hanging

And for the final piece we have a wall hanging in black, grey and white.  This piece makes the most of textured wool yarn that has been spun loosely so that the nature of the fibres is visible.  It was woven on a warp attached to a wooden frame that acts as both the loom and the final frame for the piece.  The luxurious textures invite you to touch it.  Large round white beads provide a contrast to the organic nature of the fibres.

White, black and neutrals can be a challenge but our weavers certainly rose to the challenge with these pieces.

Plain Weave isn't Plain or Easy

plain weave on a painted warp

 The looms available to hand weavers have advanced in technology so that they can weave complex patterns and even pictures.  There are dobby looms and, compu-dobby looms with 16 to 64 harnesses, draw looms, and jacquard looms.  But we still can be blown away by a plain weave cloth.

Some say that plain weave is the true test of a weaver's technique.  With no pattern to distract the eye, an inconsistency in the flat plain weave surface will stand out like a beacon.  A break in the weaver's rhythm or a change in tension as the warp is advanced will show up as uneven spacing of the weft threads.  Variations in the amount of  weft slack as the shuttle is thrown will show up as inconsistencies at the edges.  Plain weave isn't easy!

subtle stripping

If you love working with textured or variegated yarns plain weave may be your favourite structure.  With plain weave the yarns take centre stage with colour as the co-star.  

Designs based on stripes, plaids and gradients work well with a plain weave structure and they are not restricted by the need to match pattern repeats.  The edges of stripes will be distinct and narrow stripes will not be lost.  Plain weave also forms a uniform grid and will hold difficult yarns like chenille or slippery rayon. 

It is ideal for clothing construction because it doesn't stretch or fray as easily as other weave structures.

gradient in black and white

chenille towel

bubbles in plain weave

cram and dented warp and weft

Sometimes plain weave can surprise you and look like something far more complex.  By varying the sett across the warp you can create dense and thin areas that give the cloth texture.  You can also create open areas that encourage threads to move in lace like patterns producing a light and airy cloth.

By simply mixing yarns with different shrinkage rates you can turn stripes into seer sucker and squares into bubbles.  The pink scarf alternates warp and weft stripes of 2/20 cotton with a high energy over-spun cotton single yarn.  On the loom it appears flat but after washing the active yarn contracts causing the pink cotton squares to pucker.

So, if you don't have a computerized loom with more harnesses than you can count remember you only need two shafts to make something spectacular in plain weave.

We are working on plans for a busy year of activities and more workshops are in the wings so keep watch on our blog or facebook page for announcements.  Meanwhile congratulations to our newest batch of beginning spinners.  We'll end this post with an inspiration photo just for you.

fun with colour and a spinning wheel